Browning Golden Eagle Mark 3/Mark 4A SSB mode selector repair solution

$39.99 Buy It Now or Best Offer
free,30-Day Returns

Seller Store originalnomadradio
(3141) 99.5%,

Location: Louisville, Kentucky
Ships to: US,
Item: 115811471901

All returns accepted:ReturnsNotAccepted
Mark 3, Mark 4A:Mark 3, Mark 4A
Type:mode
Color:Brown
Browning:Browning

Here we have for sale a replacement SOLUTION for your failed Mode selector switch found in the Browning Mark 3 SSB transmitter. No, it’s not a switch. It’s the two parts of the switch that go bad. The frame, shaft and detent from your bad selector switch will be used to mount these two NEW contact decks in place of the old, failed contact decks. The metal parts of the switch never go bad, only the plastic parts. These new contact decks are made with a high-voltage ceramic insulation. It won’t break down the way the original brown bakelite wafers ALWAYS do, sooner or later. There is NOTHING SIMPLE about replacing this selector. It has a bazillion wires leading to/from it. The wire colors were changed over the different production runs of the Mark 3 SSB transmitter, so a step-by-step procedure telling you which-color wire to put onto which lug is probably not practical. Doesn’t matter, I don’t plan to write that procedure anyway. This kit includes two metal spacers. They are slightly shorter than the original spacers. The new ceramic wafers are thicker than the old brown bakelite. This runs the risk that the screws holding it together will come up short when the switch is reassembled with the new, thicker contact decks. The two original metal spacers that are against the metal frame of the detent mechanism get replaced with these two shorter metal spacers. It also includes ten black-fiber washers that you place up against the white ceramic surface, one on each side IN BETWEEN the metal spacers and the white ceramic material. The ceramic is a bit brittle, so this cushions any uneven pressure from the metal spacers and prevents a fracture around the screw holes. Ten? You only need eight!. The extra two washers are for you to lose in the carpet. From time to time we will list the fully-assembled switch in a separate listing. When I have spare switch frame/detent assemblies, we build them with two of these ceramic decks. And when they sell out, we cancel the listing. The ‘see other items’ link should make that listing visible. There is one large, important warning to include here: DON’T TURN THEM AROUND THE WRONG WAY! WON’T WORK! The two contact decks must be oriented exactly the same as the old ones BEFORE YOU SOLDER THE FIRST WIRE TO EITHER OF THEM! If either one is spun 180 degrees different from the other one, or if both decks are spun a half turn different from the original switch, IT WON’T WORK! Don’t ask how I discovered this. Naturally, you need to ALREADY know how to replace a complex rotary selector. This generally includes drawing a diagram of the old switch, showing the wire colors, and the bare jumper wires that you also find on the original selector. A photograph, or more likely a sequence of them will probably work, so long as the focus and detail are perfect. Clear, legible close-up photography is probably easier now than it used to be, but still important if you go that route. AND IF YOU CONSIDER THIS AS A ‘FIRST’ project of this kind, you are ON YOUR OWN! I WON’T help rescue a transmitter with a mode switch wired wrong. The odds of success are FAR better if you hire or cajole someone who has done this before to perform the work, or at least help. IF YOU SCREW IT UP, YOU’LL HAVE TO RESCUE YOURSELF. I WON’T BE AVAILABLE TO UNDO THE DAMAGE. One really good way to cheat is to find a transmitter from the exact, same production version as your transmitter. Simply copy what you see in that one. ONE OTHER CONSIDERATION is the collateral damage the old selector can cause. This often includes: -> A blown-out meter(!) -> A roasted balanced modulator, shorted diodes >INSIDE< T-1, a burned carrier-balance control R4. -> Burned R51, a 3.3k 1/2-watt resistor (orange-orange-red) attached to one lug of the 3-section “can” filter capacitor C61. If any of these faults are present, you’ll have to fix them as well as replace the mode selector that blew them out in the first place. This selector almost never gets replaced until it damages at least one other part in the transmitter. Sometimes more than just one. If you know what this is and what it’s for, you can decide if you want or need it. And if you don’t know what it is, you probably don’t need it. Trust me on this. Just don’t take it on as a “first” project. Consult someone who has done it before. There are NO RETURNS AT ALL FOR ANY REASON OF ANY KIND!No matter how good they sound. We ship no later than the second business day following receipt of cleared payment. We use USPS only. It’s been VERY reliable and comes with tracking. !!!! NOTE !!!! Shipping to destinations outside the US are by the Ebay GSP or Global Shipping Program. How much that will cost you is anybody’s guess. Ask Ebay if you want to know. Maybe they’ll tell you. They won’t tell me. Maybe they should rename the “GSP” the “Global Secret Program”. GSP ONLY!! GSP ONLY!! GSP ONLY!! No, I will NOT ship direct if you are outside the USA and its colonies. GSP ONLY!! GSP ONLY!! GSP ONLY!! All routine Ebay precautions apply. Scammers take your nonsense elsewhere. Please. Thanks for looking!

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